Historical perspective is all-important when visiting buildings we usually pass by regularly in every day life. To give this perspective, the organisers of the Crumlin Road Gaol Tour meet up at the gates of the nearby Clifton Street Cemetery. Gaol tourists are led by local historian Joe Baker, to the back of the closed burial site and introduced to Belfast as it was when the gaol served as a Victorian "working prison".
The County Gaol for Antrim, as it was originally known, was built in Belfast between 1843 and 1845. It was situated out in the country at that time – near the cemetery and poor house. It is one of those unique locations whose history and development reflects the political and cultural times through which it progressed. Even when the prison gates were closed in March 1996, it presaged the signing of the Good Friday Agreement and the end of another era in the prison's murky history.
The beauty of this tour is that it has more angles than a thrupenny bit. Even the tour guides have a unique insight. Both were former guests at the establishment. It was like having a tour of the Colosseum led by a gladiator. Joe Baker and Michael Liggett describe past poverty, the injustice of old penal systems, the harsh treatment of prisoners, executions and many other aspects. All the while this sombre subject is interspersed with the local humour that always seems to permeate the harshest of Belfast topics.
Visitors are shown the cells, landings and basement of the infamous prison and into the death cell and execution chamber where the original rope hangs – beside a latter-day sign warning to 'Mind your Head'. We visit the yard where paint markings denote the finding of the remains of executed prisoners. The building of an eerie atmosphere culminates with a visit to the room below the gallows where the bodies of hanged felons were left for an hour before removal for swift burial. All of this scene is mixed with a torrent of interesting tales of sensation, scandal, escape and murder. The two guides supply an endless stream of interesting historical background and facts surrounding the most notorious cases.
The second part of the tour adds a twist by introducing the potential of interaction with the spirits of some of the prison's previous inhabitants. The ghost hunt begins. This is not, however a role for our quick-witted guides. We are brought back to the dungeons of the prison (at least 4 feet underground) and introduced to mediums who will dare to call into the shadows for responses from beyond the grave.
At this point the lights are turned off and the party are left to wonder if there is more safety in numbers in the cold, damp tunnel below, than to return to the darkened prison – above ground – but alone. The constant noise of running water, the cool condensation along the walls and the distant look all mediums seem to have combine to create an atmosphere perfect for the scene. Descriptions of whom we might 'meet' are outlined in a manner one would expect from your parents before visiting an old, distant relative. Cynic or believer you can't help but begin to wonder if this might be the time when all of those questions we have pondered on will be answered. Are there really ghosts?
As everyone stares into the distant shadows, you can sense a communal desire for a sign of a presence – combined in some with the temptation to shout 'Boo'. Will the man they call 'sir' react to the unwanted presence of women? Are your eyes reacting to the darkness or did that shadow really move up ahead? Did you hear that? All-in-all a very worthwhile experience – even for the least spiritual amongst us.
The visit ends with tea and biscuits above ground and an opportunity to discuss the highlights with your fellow convicts.
From one who has travelled extensively and been conducted around many of Europe's most iconic historical buildings, I can attest to the unique experience that swings from paramilitary to paranormal. A truly magical tour.
Unfortunately, due to renovations at the prison to upgrade facilities for visitors, tours have had to be suspended from the end of June 2010. It is likely to be the summer of 2011 before tours can re-commence. Details online at www.toursofbelfast.com.
